Just when it seems like you've tasted everything or you start to get bored with wine something always comes along and teaches you that you can never taste everything, and there will always be something new and different to grab your attention. We were tasting through some wines from Friuli, the region in the upper Northeast corner of Italy and I saw on the table a new wine from a producer whose wines have a bit of a cult following. Based in Valeriano in the Eastern side of Friuli, Emilio Bulfon produces wines from grapes that are native to Friuli- grapes which he saved from extinction, and which only he produces. While I know that I tasted through all of his wines last year with him at VinItaly, I was shocked when I saw the new label. The wines I was most familiar with are single varietal wines and it was surprising that this was a blend of some of them. All of the grapes are hand harvested and the final blend is 35% Piculit-Neri, 15% Forgiarin, 15% Cjanorie, and 35% Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso. I have been surprised in the past by his wines, but this really surprised me.The nose was showing lots of fruit, though not at all candied or baked- very fresh. In the mouth persistent fruit was backed up by plenty of acid and the finish is clean, juicy, and minerally but showing some nice tannin for structure. The alcohol level was higher than most Friuli reds but I think I can deal with it because the wine is so balanced.
If I can think of one big problem it is that it is really hard to sell people things that taste nothing like anything they have ever had. Sure I could say this sort of reminds of really young Merlot from Bordeaux blended with a young Barbera D'asti or something like that but there are probably only a handful of people for whom my description would provide some sort of idea of what to expect. My point is: the more we explore and expose ourselves to more unique, varietals, the more reference points we gain, and that means we can all try new things without being afraid of not liking it. My advice is that if you ever see a wine made by Emilio Bulfon- you can tell which ones are his, all his labels look somewhat like the one above- you should pick it up. They are all wonderful expressions of grapes that might not ever try if you didn't make an effort. Go forth! Discover the World is full of treasure!
Mark!
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